Not a wall anymore

We walked along side the wall for about a half hour. Graffiti art was sectioned throughout the 300 meters of the remaining icon. This stretch of the Berlin Wall was perserved, so to speak - despite crackling brick and small amatuer signatures spraypainted on top of some seriously inspired work. The German government is providing tourists – currently for free – a place to see a small piece of what was once deemed one of the eight wonders of the world.

During the self-guided tour of the East Side Gallery, hundreds of local artists worked on expressing their repression. Chains, white doves, crumbling walls and people embracing were just a few of the symbols used to drive home the point. These people were caged, for more than 38 years, in a city governed by those with seemingly little understanding of the concept of freedom.

One particular block of wall portrayed a sea of humanity rushing through the opened wall. The faces were sad, enlightened, and demented as the throng flowed and crashed between the depicted entrance to the unknown. Also displayed on many works were suprisingly realistic portraits. Unsure of the identity of these faces, the faded colors still drove home the original intent of the artist. These were sad people. However, there did seem to be a bit of hope among some. One stretch was titled “Dancing to Freedom”. Underneath the wavy, playful figures read the slogan: “No more wars, no more walls, a united world.” While the technique of this piece was not jaw dropping, the message was what mattered. In its simplicity, passerbys had to stop.

After walking for 20 minutes, stopping to snap photos of the more inspired sections, what else but a bar and chill space popped up in a wall opening. A large 20-foot section of the former barrier was knocked out to reveal a riverfront hangout clad in comfy sofas, picnic benches, beachy sand floors and a full bar serving any drink you could imagine – from chai tea to organic beer. About the size of an American football field, it was called Space Beach and the name seemed unfitting just at an initial glance.

Further down the sand was a Burningman-like spaceship with four enormous legs sprouting out of the middle body. It was now obvious where the name came from. Spraypainted black and silver to resemble mechanical parts, the dramatic art piece was open in the front for those who wished to venture up the ramp and sit in the small hull. Directly in front of the towering structure were swaying trippers, drinking pilsners and smoking cigarettes. Shoes were kicked to the side as the 20 somethings, about 40 of them, were in another world, enjoying the downbeat techno coming from the scattered speakers. It was obvious this place got louder, more crowded and weirder as evening festivities progressed.

One of the twirlers looked to weigh no more than 90 lbs. She had slicked down black-dyed hair to her shoulders with straight bangs and red lipstick. Her pale complexion and rail-thin appendages were stuck neatly in tight jeans and a white tank top with a black mini sweater. She had a pack of cigarettes in one hand and was shuffling to the music, by herself, around a dining room table-sized fountain with the smallest spout of water ever conceived. She was in her own space, doing her own thing, on a Friday afternoon with the hazy heat and light drizzle surrounding her.

There were others too. Two dreaded girls, with their slightly baggy jeans and colorful, hip t-shirts on, were dancing with each other. Also smoking, neither was aware that the party didn’t get going for another 7 hours. Their smiles expressed sheer bliss and there could have been 2000 people there for all they knew. For them, life wasn’t going to get any better, at least not today. Scattered gently throughout the dancers was drinkers, some soaking their feet in the pathetic, shallow fountain, others clink beer bottles and stub out their smokes.

And to think, the Berlin Wall stood 15 feet away. In what was once called the death strip, the empty space between the river and the wall was now converted into a Capitalistic free for all. DJs control this zone with the help of young, urban Berliners. The city and all its past battle scars has flipped the switch and morphed into the definition of cool. What once was the most unhappening place in the world is now the center for growth, expressionist art and prosperity. Berlin is definitely open for business.